May 26, 2012 – Wine: 2003 Rudd Estate Red

I bought this wine to complete a vertical, and to give it a try.  I am absolutely taken by the 2002, and the 2004 is an impressive offering as well.  I figured, how bad can the 2003 be with such pedigree?  I was not disappointed at all.  Considering that 2003 is a vintage that some collectors steer clear of, I found this wine to be delightfully balanced, spectacular on the nose, and downright delicious.  This wine delivers on the fruit.  It starts off in a big way with black cherry and raspberry, followed by notes of mineral, and a suggestion of leather and vanilla.  The finish lasts beyond half a minute and the tannins are both silky and sweet.  Let this wine decant for over two hours before drinking to avoid the harsh edges and you will be rewarded.  I decanted for an hour, and by hour-two I had a little more than an ounce remaining in my glass.  While it was enough to learn that the wine had turned so velvety soft, it was a little too late to really enjoy it.  By the way … try melting a bit of dark chocolate on your tongue before taking a sip.  The two flavors really bring out the best experience.

2003 Rudd Estate Red

May 25, 2012 – Wine: 2006 Bethel Heights Casteel Reserve Pinot Noir

I guess one glass of wine today just wasn’t enough.  A few hours after my guest went on his way, I opened a second bottle.  This time I was hoping for something silky and light, like a nicely aged Pinot Noir.  What I got was something a bit more tannic.  Clearly this Pinot Noir was built for the long run.  While its palette represents classic Pinot Noir flavors, its body was fuller and its tannins more course than some other Pinots when young.  I noted flavors of sour cherry, mineral, tobacco, and menthol on the complex palette.  It would seem that two to four years of additional cellar time is in order.

2006 Bethel Heights Casteel Reserve Pinot Noir

May 25, 2012 – Wine: 2007 Joseph Phelps Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

A long-time friend stopped by to visit today and he had time for one glass of wine.  I opened a half-bottle of 2007 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon (not the Insignia mind you) to see how it is progressing.  It most certainly is progressing, and quite nicely.  The most amazing attribute today has to be this wine’s balance.  That, coupled with the delicious palette, gives this wine a tremendous experience for such a young (for 2007) Cabernet Sauvignon.  The very complex palette features vanilla, black berries, black cherry, mineral, and leather, all wound together wonderfully.  I am looking forward to opening the next bottle in a few months.



2007 Joseph Phelps Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon



Saint Clement Vineyards, May 12th, 2012

Winery - 8 / Wines - 7
Range:  1 to 9 (9 is best, 5 is average)
1880’s hillside farmhouse and shaded patio.  Cabernets, Merlots, Chardonnays, and Sauvignon Blanc.
www.stclement.com

I was once a wine club member at St. Clement Vineyards.  Before that, I decided to visit the winery the first time after thoroughly enjoying a bottle of their 2001 Oroppas (rated 93 points).  After several visits, I decided to join the wine club after tasting the 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2002 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon.  I made the "mistake" of selecting a version of the club that delivered three bottles each month.  It wasn’t long before my basement was swimming in St. Clement’s wines, so I had to withdraw from the club.  I continue to visit St. Clement and follow their wines through each vintage.  I have been enjoying my wine club wines as they mature as well.  And I adore the St. Clement property.



The balcony at St. Clement Winery welcomes you

Just north of the town of St. Helena, past the historic Beringer winery, the St. Clement winery clings to the hillside of the western foothills.  The tasting room is housed (pun intended) in an 1880’s era plantation house overlooking the valley floor.  The house rests about 100 feet above the valley floor, affording a spectacular view of the valley while remaining intimately close to the vines.  The house is surrounded by a classic balcony that wraps around three sides of the building.  Just in front of the house is a large patio shaded by a huge old oak tree with a number of tables where you can sit and enjoy your tasting flight (and a snack).  The patio is surrounded by a tiered garden that is nicely landscaped.  The views from the patio go so well with the St. Clement wines.  If you attend a special event in the winemaker’s house, you are in for another treat.  That house is quite new, but styled and appointed in classic California luxury, relaxed and elegant.


The tasting bar at St. Clement Winery

 St. Clement offers two tasting options.  One showcases the winery’s Napa Valley wines which are sourced from multiple sites throughout the valley.  The other features a selection of St. Clement’s single-vineyard wines.  I paid for the single-vineyard flight but swapped in a couple of the Napa Valley blends.  I tried the 2008 Merlot, the 2009 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2008 Oroppas, and the 2008 Star Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.  They also pour a Chardonnay and a Sauvignon Blanc, depending upon which tasting flight you elect.  This time my favorite wine was the 2008 Oroppas for its terrific balance.

Based on this experience, I would rate the winery as an 8 and the wines offered as a 7.  This is consistent with all of my previous visits.

May 17, 2012 – Wine: 2005 Shafer Merlot

A friend of mine in the wine business invited me to join him for a tasting at Shafer Winery in 2008.  After tasting the 2003 Shafer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, I was eager to try the 2005 (now called One Point Five).  While certainly nicely made, the star of the tasting event was the 2005 Shafer Merlot.  I can recall its beautiful fruits and richness.  When I last opened a bottle (in June 2011) this wine was exquisite in its texture, although its beautiful fruits were starting to wane.  This time, the palette featured primarily mineral flavors followed by dark cherry, leather, dark chocolate, and menthol.  This bottle developed a slightly edgy body (even after two hours open).  I have one half-bottle remaining.

Hewitt Vineyards, May 12th, 2012

Winery - 7 / Wines - 8
Range:  1 to 9 (9 is best, 5 is average)
See notes on Provenance Vineyards earlier.  Just one Cabernet Sauvignon, but what a cab it is.
www.hewittvineyards.com

Anyone who knows about Hewitt Vineyards knows that the operation is really a specialized operation of Provenance Vineyards.  The Hewitt Vineyard consists of a parcel located in Rutherford’s prime western bench lands.  There is plenty of history behind the vineyard, which you can read about on the Hewitt web site.  I discovered this wine through a friend who had a buddy that worked on the bottling line.  One of the “employee benefits” was passed on to my friend who shared it with me … and I was hooked.  Of course, the Hewitt wines are poured in the Provenance tasting room, and I have already reviewed that experience.  Today’s experience was an exclusive event giving wine club members a special preview of the 2009 release of Hewitt.


The Rutherford Benchland, Provenance Vineyard in foreround, Hewitt Vineyard off in the distance

My experience was slightly different from that of other guests because I was greeted by the winemaker himself, Tom Rinaldi.  Tom Rinaldi is a fun-spirited man who strives for perfection in his art and seems happiest when his guests are enjoying his craft.  He packed four guests, a case of wine, himself and a coworker into an electric cart and drove us all to the special events house in the vineyards behind the main winery.  The guest house is surrounded by lawn and large shade trees, which established the perfect springtime setting for tasting through the Hewitt wines.  The event was very casual (think shorts and a comfortable shirt), featured a live band playing upbeat music that was not intrusive, Spanish paella, and some very tasty hors d’oeuvres.  There were plenty of tables to sit at, each with a shade umbrella and linens.  Guests were greeted with a glass of the newly released 2011 Sauvignon Blanc and advised about the various vintages of Hewitt Cabernet available for tasting.  For me, the highlight of the event was when the winemaker drew a Swiss army knife from his pocket, flipped out the scissors, and snipped an errant whisker from my mustache.  There’s a story I won’t be able to tell enough times.



The tasting room entrance at Provenance Vineyards

I make no secret of this:  Hewitt Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon is my favorite wine from Napa Valley (when factoring in the price, which I always do).  The wine delivers amazing consistency of quality across strong vintages and weak ones.  Today was my first ever experience tasting five consecutive vintages of Hewitt Cabernet in one sitting.  I began with the 2009 vintage, which is probably the most powerful Hewitt that I have tasted, though this wine is clearly young and in need of some cellaring.  Next, I tasted the 2010 directly from barrel – great fruit!  I next had the 2006 and the 2008.  Finally, Tom had urged me to try the 2009 “Double Plus”, which had an amazing entrance to the palette.  Of the wines poured at the event, my favorite was the 2008 for its terrific balance and flavor.  Finally, I went inside the Provenance tasting room to taste the 2007 Hewitt, which was my favorite wine of the entire day.  (I also tasted the 2007 Provenance Three Palms Merlot and was delighted that the wine was one of the bottles in my club shipment.)  Knowing that I would be tasting a substantial amount of good wine, I planned two hours for the event.

Based on this experience, I rate the wines tasted an eight.  The winery rating is carried over from the prior Provenance visit.

May 13, 2012 – Wine: 2005 J. Lohr Cuvee St. E

For Mother’s Day, I wanted to open something that would be a favorite of the two mothers at our get together.  Since one is a wine club member at J. Lohr, I figured that one of their flagship cuvees would be well received.  Ordinarily, J. Lohr produces three distinct Paso Robles cuvees each vintage: one primarily cabernet Sauvignon, one primarily Merlot, and one primarily Cabernet Franc called the St. E Cuvee.  In 2005, the only cuvee wine they produced was the St. E.  When it was released, the wine was wonderfully rich and offered great balance.  The tannins were in check and the fruit was well presented, even though the wine was clearly quite young.  Today, the wine seems to be passing through an awkward state of its evolution.  The flavors were all on the dark side, suggesting tar, black cherries, dark chocolate truffles, and leather (which surprised me because most Napa fruit from the same vintage features red fruits prominently).  The wine is wonderfully rich, albeit a little awkward and off-balance.  I expect the next two bottles to rebalance sometime in the next two years or so.  There are certainly enough tannins present to sustain another five or more years of cellaring.  And indeed, this wine was well received by both moms.



2005 J. Lohr Cuvee St. E



Hess Collection Winery, May 12th, 2012

Winery - 8 / Wines - 7
Range:  1 to 9 (9 is best, 5 is average)
Vine-covered building, wonderful garden and pond.  Good values and unexpected variety of wines.
www.hesscollection.com

I discovered this winery by looking at a map of the area and thinking “what an unusual name”.  So I planned a visit on my first solo trip to Napa Valley in 2005.  I was immediately taken in by the grounds, the building, and the tasting room.  I was also amazed by the wines, which offer very good quality for the price.  I since brought my sister to Hess Collection and she was sufficiently impressed to join the wine club.  (I benefitted from her membership a little, too.)  This time I was introducing a friend to the Hess Collection winery.  I knew he would appreciate all that they have to offer.



The Hess Collection Entrance


Unlike many mountain wineries that require enduring a winding road to get there, this winery rewards anyone with an appreciation for beauty (not just the wine enthusiast).  The walk up to the winery entrance is lined on one side by a long, narrow, elevated pond with gold fish and floating lily pads.  The other side is flanked by a tall wall covered by grape vines.  Across from the pond is a large peaceful garden area with full sun and shaded areas.  The lobby to the winery is much like a corporate office, except that it is decorated by large paintings that are a part of the Hess (art) Collection.  Just off the lobby lies the tasting room which is an experience in textures.  From the hardwood floors to the stone faced walls and the under counter lighting the entire room is textured in richness.  A tasting bar occupies the middle of the room and accommodates more people than you might have imagined.  Just off the tasting room is a store where you can buy any of the available wine selections, branded merchandise, and some irresistible snacks (watch out for the Chardonnay peanut brittle).  For those not interested in wine, there are two floors of renowned art above the lobby that you are free to browse.  My favorite work features an old typewriter with flames coming off the platen. 



The tasting bar at The Hess Collection Winery


Hess Collection produces one of the broadest collections of different wine varieties that I have experienced, and each is produced at the same fine level of quality.  There are about five or six white wines, a rosé, and a vast array of reds.  On this visit, I tried one of the Zinfandels, the Carignane, a Petite Sirah, the Charbono, a Meritage blend, and two Cabernet Sauvignons.  (There is a four wine limit, but my companion and I shared our distinct flights.)  Surpisingly, my favorite was the Petite Sirah for its balance, restraint (for a Petite Sirah), and delicious fruit.  In other vintatges Hess Collection has produced a Malbec (2006), a Cabernet Franc (2004), and a Petite Verdot (2004) that were also noteworthy.

Based on this experience, I would rate the winery as an 8 and the wines offered as a 7.  This is consistent with all of my previous visits.

May 12th, 2012 - Returning to Napa Valley

Sometimes I go to Napa Valley on a whim, other times with a purpose.  Having multiple purposes gives me that much more motivation to make the trip.  The primary motivation for today’s trip was to attend the annual Hewitt Release party for the 2009 vintage.  I have often said that Hewitt makes my favorite Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon when factoring in the price, so I am always eager to attend one of their events.  Being eager doesn’t seem to have been enough, since this was my first time attending the Hewitt release function.  To further motivate me, I had a wine-club pickup at Provenance Vineyards where the Hewitt release party was being held.   Of course, I’ve had wine-club pickups before and still I hadn’t attended the big event.  Finally, a close friend of mine was longing to visit the valley, so I decided to combine all of this into one trip.  It also allowed me to visit two of the places on my favorites list which I had neglected for a few years.  (I often struggle with selecting a new winery over visiting an old favorite.)  And, I could not have asked for better weather.

Fermenting tanks at Hess Collection Winery

May 11, 2012 – Wine: 2004 Ehlers Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

When this wine was young, it exhibited classic 2004 flavors – namely, sweet dark fruits with silky tannins.  Like most 2004’s, this wine went through a tannic phase where it was nearly undrinkable without spending hours in a decanter.  Tonight, the tannins have finally softened.  The sweet black fruits remain, and are joined by other complexities on the palette including leather, black licorice, and a trace of peppermint on the finish.  While the body was still in good form, the acids were a little off-balance.  Overall, the wine is quite enjoyable but for this one quality.  (This might be the result of aging in a half bottle.)



2004 Elhers Estate Cabernet Sauvignon



Ridge Winery, April 29th, 2012

I returned to Ridge today to enjoy the excellent weather and sample their wines free of the crowds at the special events.  While my previous visit was exciting with the barrel tasting and an upbeat stir in the air, this visit was wonderfully relaxed.  (Check my prior review for scores, etc.)  I tasted through three Zinfandels, a tasty Carignane, and the Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, which has improved noticeably since I tasted it in early March.  My favorite wine was the 2008 Carmichael Zinfandel, which delivers classic Zinfandel flavors, elegant body, and terrific balance.



The original Ridge WInery Operations on Monte Bello

After tasting I was able to enjoy the gardens which were popping with new spring blooms.  At the tables were picnickers enjoying a light feast along with a bottle of something from the winery.  The air was unusually clear thanks to recent rains and winds.  On a day like this you can see the outline of the financial district in downtown San Francisco.  (Okay, so I’m a little far-sighted.)

The gardens at Ridge's Monte Bello tasting room

Bottle Variation

Most people don’t realize that wine is a bottle of slowly reacting chemistry.  That’s because most folks don’t hold onto wine long enough for the chemistry to make a significant difference.  I heard a statistic that suggests 90% of all wine purchased in the U.S.A. is opened within 24 hours of purchase, and up to 98% is opened by month’s end.  So, fewer than 2% of wine purchases ever get to experience the wine aging process.  For those of us who do age our wines, the results can be amazing, even surprising.  At a Monte Bello barrel tasting event at Ridge Winery in 2007, they were pouring their 1994 vintage of Monte Bello to give purchasers of the 2004 vintage an idea about how their investment will age.  I must say that the 1994 Monte Bello was holding up quite well.  But one thing the employee pouring the wine pointed out was that each bottle aged uniquely, even bottles retrieved from the same 11-year old case.  One bottle had pronounced mineral notes, another had lighter body with floral notes, while the third had dense fruit.  What can cause this?

Although winemakers strive to produce the purest wine possible, the smaller, more specialized operations also favor less human intervention in the winemaking process.  Rather than filtering wine to get the most usable juice, these winemakers allow the juice mixture to settle and then take all but the last few inches, leaving behind most of the debris that is a part of making wine.  This can include grape skins, grape seeds, stems, bits of leaves, and other debris.  If any of these particles should be siphoned into a bottle, those bits become a part of the chemistry that happens inside the bottle once the cork is punched down and the bottle is allowed to rest.  Even the cork itself (or the screw cap) can affect the wine’s development.  Some winemakers lack the facilities to blend the juice from all of the individual barrels into a single tank before bottling, which can lead to differences that can be tasted when the wine is still young.  Another important factor is temperature, and while two bottles in a case of wine may be stored at the same temperature, each bottle may experience different temperature effects over time based on proximity to the edge of the case and proximity of the case to the edge of the shipping palette.  It goes without saying that two bottles aged in different individuals’ cellars will likely turn out differently.  Most of the time, these differences are noticed in the nuances of the wine.  (At tasting competitions, three or four bottles of the same wine are often combined before serving to the tasters to avoid such bottle variations.)  On rare occasion, the chemistry in a particular bottle can go wrong and produce very undesirable results. 

When a young wine comes out bad, some retailers will want to confirm your experience and may offer some kind of consolation.  Be sure to save the bad wine and re-cork it – don’t toss it down the drain – so that you can bring a sample to the retailer.  Personally, I find that wine that is a little off still helps create a tasty marinara sauce, so I keep my wine failures in the refrigerator for cooking.  As for aged wines, there is little that any retailer can do to help you.  The wine is likely years past when it was last available for sale, and the retailer has no way of confirming that the wine was properly handled during its time in the bottle.  So, there is some risk involved with aging your wines, but I think the benefits make it worth the risk and the effort.

More on this topic can be found at:  http://tercerowines.com/2010/02/bottle-variation-whats-the-story/