Sunday, December 30, 2012

Hall Winery, November 2, 2012

Winery - 6 / Wines - 5
Range:  1 to 9 (9 is best, 5 is average)
Casual woodwork, interesting glass mobiles on ceiling.  Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, and Sauvignon Blanc.
www.hallwines.com

My friend recommended visiting Hall Winery.  I had visited about four years ago for the first time and tasted their 2004 wines and was a little disappointed (they lacked the special quality that many 2004’s possessed).  Since then, Hall has received three years of accolades, including a 96 point award for their 2006 Cabernet (which I tasted, and have to admit was impressive, especially for the vintage).  So, it was with mixed emotions that I headed for Hall Winery.  Perhaps they have changed wine makers since my last visit, or perhaps they were dealt off-quality grapes in 2004.  I recall during my last visit that there was quite a bit of construction underway, so I was eager to see what had changed.

Lush entrance to Hall Winery.
Driving into Hall Winery at the south end of St. Helena, I noticed that the biggest changes seemed to be to the parking area and surrounding patios.  All of these changes make the entrance to the winery seem new, although on closer inspection it is simply better accented by its landscaping.  The new entrance is lush with greenery, including a stone wall covered in climbing vines and flanked by shrubbery.  Walking through the glass doors, the wood-clad interior welcomes you.  The warmth of the woodwork sets a casual tone that makes for a more relaxed tasting experience.  The tasting room is ample and easily accommodates 20 or more people.  Outside the tasting room is a large patio area fitted neatly with several long tasting tables.  In the spring and autumn, these tables would be ideal for enjoying a sampling of their wines in the warm air of the valley.  The main purpose of the outdoor tasting area seems to be for winery events, though I did not confirm this with the winery.  My favorite feature of the winery is the collection of mobiles hanging from the tasting room ceiling, each suspending giant teardrops of red glass. 

The tasting room at Hall Winery.

My tasting experience began with a familiar face – my pourer worked at St. Clement Winery while I was a wine-club member there.  It is nice to meet a familiar face while visiting Napa Valley.  The tasting flight allows a small amount of flexibility, and I tasted the 2008 Merlot, the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, a 2009 Syrah blend, and the 2009 Kathryn Hall Cabernet Sauvignon, which was my favorite.  The Syrah had a meaty nose to it, for those interested in those varietal nuances.  Overall, the wines from this vintage seem to lack the wow factor from the 2006 Hall Cabernet.

Based on this experience, I would rate the winery as a 6 and the wines offered as a 5.  This is consistent with my prior visit.

Wednesday, December 26, 2012

October 30, 2012 – Wine: 2004 Bell Cellars Clone 6 Cabernet Sauvignon

When my favorite half-bottle web site put this wine on sale, I jumped at the opportunity to acquire six half-bottles.  Having already tasted this wine at the winery while I was a wine club member, the purchase was a no-brainer.  Tonight I opened the fourth bottle from this group, and I was pleased to notice the development of a certain richness in this wine.  It starts off with a prominent nose, and is followed by a well-balanced palette of cherries, blackberries, tobacco notes, and minerals.  I knew that this wine had potential (having enjoyed a number of 1996 half-bottles from the same source), but the richness took me by surprise.

2004 Bell Clone 6 Cabernet Sauvignon

Sunday, December 23, 2012

October 27, 2012 – Wine: 2002 Surh Luchtel Cabernet Sauvignon

Back in 2006, I discovered that Brix restaurant in Napa Valley featured a wine shop where you could buy (at retail prices) the wines on their award-winning menu, as well as a few others.  When I inquired about their half-bottles, the saleswoman took me discretely into the cooler and I felt like a kid in a candy shop.  I found a half-bottle of Merryvale Profile, a Baldacci Cabernet, and this wine, which the saleswoman assured would cellar nicely.  It sure did, too.  A plush wine with vintage-typical fruit of cherry, cranberry, and red currant, as well mineral and leather notes, the wine remains highly structured, richly bodied, and retains dusty tannins.  I expect it to easily go another five years in the cellar, and I’ll find out when I open the last bottle.   Now, if only I could thank the kind saleswoman for directing me to this wine.  (Note that three nights later – corked on the countertop – the wine was drinking as well as it did the first night.)

2002 Surh Luchtel Cabernet Sauvignon

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Ideology Cellars (at Silenus Vintners), November 2, 2012

Winery - 7 / Wines - 6
Range:  1 to 9 (9 is best, 5 is average)
Stylish, casual tasting room cooperative, Chardonnays and Cabernet blends, reservations required.
www.ideologycellars.com

When I first started enjoying Napa Valley Cabernets, I discovered Koves-Newlan’s 2002 Cabernets being sold at my local wine shop.  These cabernets were delicious when young and for just $10 a half-bottle, I’m kicking myself for not having bought more.  After being unable to locate more bottles, I decided to visit the winery for a tasting.  When I arrived at the Oak Knoll facility, a worker informed me that the winery was no longer open.  (Research suggests that they fell victim to bankruptcy.)  About a year later I noticed the Silenus sign appear and was glad that somebody had taken over, but I was never curious to return.  Recently, my wine-tasting buddy suggested tasting at Ideology Cellars, so I made an appointment and discovered that they are part of the Silenus Vintners cooperative now operating at the former Koves-Newlan winery site.  So, naturally I was looking forward to my upcoming visit.

The Silenus (and Ideology) tasting room in Oak Knoll

The tasting room was grafted onto the existing winery operations building when the new owners acquired the property in 2006.  The exterior of the winery tasting room is understated, but its most prominent feature is easily visible.  A gently rounded glass wall graces the front of the building and makes for an interesting view both into and out of the tasting room.  The interior uses an interesting application of contemporary décor applied with restraint.  There is ample use of glass, both for walling off tasting areas and for bringing in the outdoor light, so the tasting room is softly bathed in natural light.  Rich colors grace the walls and accentuate the woodwork and glow in the warm lighting.  Just beyond the tasting bar, a pair of glass doors opens to the barrel room providing a mid-level view of the two-story high arrangements of working wine barrels.  The best part of the visit is getting a whiff of the thick aroma emanating from all those wine barrels.

The tasting bar at Ideology/Silenus.

As Ideology Cellars is part of the Silenus Vintners collective, your tasting experience there may include wines from other wine labels produced at the same facility.  My tasting experience started off with two different 2010 Chardonnay’s made by Ideology (one with more oak and one with more steel), followed by a 2010 Pinot Noir by Coleman Nicole, the 2009 Ideology Proprietary Blend (mostly Merlot this year), and the 2008 Ideology Reserve Block Cabernet.  My favorite was the Proprietary Blend, while my friend bought a bottle of the Pinot Noir.

Based on this experience, I would rate the winery as a 7 and the wines offered as a 6. 

Sunday, December 16, 2012

October 22, 2012 – Special Wines

2004 Bell Cellars Talianna Red Wine

I remember being so impressed with the 2002 vintage of this wine that I bought a bottle, in spite of its price.  I had enjoyed the other 2004 Bell wines so much that I was comfortable buying this wine without tasting it first.  Then, I forgot I had it.  (That is the proper way to age a wine.)  Tonight, while searching my cellar for something special to open, I happened upon this bottle and decided it was time.  While I expected the flavors to be delicious, I never expected the richness that had developed in this wine.  Wow!  The nose was beautiful, the palette was wonderfully balanced, and the finish persisted long enough to enjoy this wine slowly.  The palette featured raspberry jam, minerals, black cherry, and leather.  After pouring the last glass, I started kicking myself for not buying more of this when I had the opportunity.

2003 Ridge York Creek Zinfandel

2003 was one of California’s greatest Zinfandel vintages of late, and York Creek produces elegant Zinfandels for Ridge.  Combine the two and what’s not to like?  I have been Jonesing to open this bottle for a couple of years now and finally decided I had the right mix of appreciative guests to uncork it.  While this wine was overshadowed by the intense richness of the Bell Talianna, had I poured this wine first it would have been nearly as amazing.  The richness in this wine is far more subtle, but the wine is also more elegant.  Nicely balanced, the palette delivers nearly pure fruits of black raspberry, cranberry, black cherry, leather, and minerals.  Again, I was kicking myself for only buying the one bottle.

2003 Ridge York Creek Zinfandel


Saturday, December 8, 2012

October 21, 2012 – Wine: 2004 Saint Clement Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

I admit that I have a weakness for Howell Mountain Cabernet.  In fact, it was the 2001 and 2002 vintages of this same wine that lured me to join the Saint Clement wine club.  This bottle was in my first shipment five years ago.  Tonight, I shared this bottle with visiting relatives, along with my autumn harvest pasta sauce.  The wine was amazing.  The nose immediately offered up a bouquet or raspberries, while the balanced palette offered black raspberries, black berries, blue berries, minerals, and subtle tobacco notes, all wrapped in sturdy tannins.  In fact, this is one of the few wines from this vintage that I have tasted in the last couple of years that has retained that magical fruit that most of the vintage’s wines had when first released.  Based on the tannins and structure still present in this wine, I would guess that it has another five to eight years of growth potential.  (Oh, and it went terrifically with the pasta sauce.)

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Frog’s Leap Winery, October 1st, 2012

Winery - 7 / Wines - 6
Range:  1 to 9 (9 is best, 5 is average)
Classic Napa Valley winery, veranda seating, Cabernet, Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc, and others.
www.frogsleap.com

Okay, by the time I reached Frog’s Leap Winery, the temperature was pushing 100F degrees.  (That’s nearly 38C for the rest of the world.)  While most autumn afternoons offer an irresistible opportunity to enjoy a flight of wines outdoors, this was not one of them.  While the folks at Frog’s Leap endeavored to seat each of the guests promptly, I couldn’t help but feel a twinge of envy as we walked past a large table full of folks comfortably tasting indoors with ample air conditioning.  Instead, I was lead outdoors to the beautifully shaded veranda overlooking the lush gardens, seated at my own table al fresco.  Sure, my table was completely shaded from the sun, but there was no escaping the pervasive afternoon heat.  And I enjoy a side-by-side tasting more than most folks, but this way of pouring is terribly incompatible with serving outdoors in the heat.  With a little thought on the part of the folks working at Frog’s Leap, my experience could have been made more enjoyable.

The entrance to Frog's Leap Winery

Although this was my first visit to Frog’s Leap Winery, I couldn’t shake the feeling of de ja vu – I know I had seen this interior décor before.  The building has an elegant, contemporary home feel, with a veranda wrapping around three sides of the house.  Inside there is a large, open space that is two stories high.  The interior colors are mostly dark neutral colors of taupe and woods, with large windows in the main tasting room.  As you walk in, turn to your right and head for the cashier’s room, where you will be greeted and escorted to your table.  Once seated, you are promptly greeted by your pourer, who pours each taste into a separate glass, briefly explaining a little about each wine, and then leaving you to explore the wines on your own.  When the weather is pleasant, this is an ideal arrangement.  In the heat, I found myself stewing in my seat wondering how to pay for my tasting experience.  I finally walked inside to settle up.  Again, if not for the heat, this would have been a perfectly agreeable arrangement.


The tasting veranda at Frog's Leap Winery.

Frog’s Leap offers just one tasting menu each day.  On the day of my visit, they were pouring a 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, a 2010 Zinfandel, a 2009 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, and a 2009 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon which is their flagship of the flight.  The Sauvignon Blanc was perfect for the heat, but my favorite was the Zinfandel.  Regrettably, by the time I started tasting the Rutherford Cabernet, the wine had warmed too much and was difficult to assess or enjoy.  There are a number of other wines made by Frog’s Leap available at the winery which are worth checking out.

Based on this experience, I would rate the winery as a 7 and the wines offered as a 6.