May 1, 2012 – Wine: OMG! It’s corked!

Well, for the second time in the last five years, I have encountered a bottle that was truly corked (and not simply an off bottle).  After having opened and served my first corked bottle, which had an unusual flavor profile that was nearly fascinating, I learned the key attribute of a corked wine.  Sure the flavor profile may be unexpected, and the finish may have intolerable acids or bitterness, but the true sign of cork taint (TCA) is the smell of wet newsprint.  I remembered smelling it then and I smelled it again tonight.  Naturally, as this was the last half-bottle of a truly magnificent 2002 Napa Valley Meritage red, I was hopeful that the off smell would breathe away in 90 minutes, but it persisted (and I cried a little).  The flavor was off and it finished utterly bitter.  This was really disappointing because I could also sense a bit of richness peeking through.  As it was getting late and my palette was already thirsting for a nice red wine, I rushed to open a 2009 Dashe Zinfandel and gave it a good aerating (shake-shake-shake) in the decanter.  This wine turned out to be quite nice after just 20 minutes of breathing.

Now for some math…  Over the past five years, I have opened nearly 500 different wines, many of those multiple times.  So, let’s say 600 bottles or so.  During that time, I have encountered two bottles that were corked – one full bottle and one half bottle.  The two corked wines were both red wine blends, but the similarity ends there.  One cost about $8 a bottle (on sale by the case) from the Santa Cruz mountains and the other cost $23 a half-bottle (on sale by the case) from Napa Valley, or nearly three times the price.  But the real surprise is that the cork-taint rate for my cellar over the past five years is a mere 0.33%.  Most studies suggest a cork-taint rate of 0.7% to 1.2%, so I guess I have been exceptionally lucky in this regard.  But my point here is that cork-taint seldom happens.  A more likely failure is a failure of the cork to maintain the seal on the bottle.  Storing the bottles horizontally (rather than vertically) may help this by keeping the cork wet while reducing the direct force of the liquid on the cork.

April 28, 2013 – Wine: 2008 Elizabeth Spencer Cabernet Sauvignon

I recall tasting this at the winery and being sufficiently impressed by it to hunt down a half-case of half-bottles.  My friend’s wife decided this Cabernet was one of her favorites after tasting it soon thereafter.  That was back in July 2011.  The first bottle that I opened was in November 2011.  The wine had entered a shut-down stage of life (similar to the 2008 Clos du Val Cabernet).  It was well balanced, but lacking what originally drew me to this wine.  After observing the 2008 Clos du Val’s performance, I had hopes that this wine would have awakened.  Alas, I caught this wine too early … it is still waking up.  While not as locked down as before and suggesting the promise of something magical to come, this wine is in an earthy state right now.  I noted flavors of tobacco, black currants, sweet black prunes, leather, and minerals. 

Spottswoode, March 25, 2013

Winery - 7 / Wines - 7
Range:  1 to 9 (9 is best, 5 is average)
Elegantly restored farm house.  Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernets, reservations required.
www.spottswoode.com

Now that Spottswoode has completed work on their new hospitality room, they are better prepared to accommodate visitors (by reservation only).  In the past it was quite difficult to sample the wines at Spottswoode, but not any longer.  My traveling companion has long been a fan and supporter of Spottswoode and had been longing to taste the new vintage.  Having never visited Spottswoode to taste, and never having tasted Spottswoode’s premium Cabernet, I was also eager to try them.  So, we slipped past the St. Helena traffic backup via the side-streets and turned onto Madrona Avenue toward Spring Mountain.  Just as the town of St. Helena drops off, you’ll find the Spottswoode Estate on the right.


The old farmhouse at Spottswoode

The first thing you notice pulling into the Spottswoode driveway are the dramatic old oaks shading the parking area and surrounding buildings.  To the left stands the old winery-operations building where the barrels lie in rest behind the old stone walls.  On the right is the old farm house with its surrounding porch, which has been carefully restored and expanded in a way that does not disrupt the architectural continuity.  Inside the main office and reception area, natural light floods in through the windows that line the exterior walls of the area.  Finally, you are seated in the hospitality room where your flight is poured. 


Barrels lie in rest in the old winery operations building at Spottswoode.

 The windows in the tasting room come down just low enough to expose the view of the oaks, foothills, and vine tops from the surrounding vineyards, but block any view of the cars just outside.  The interior is decorated in a warm putty color with white paint on all the woodwork.  A beautiful, long, hardwood table runs the length of the room and its natural finish adds warmth to the setting.


Inside the hospitality/tasting room at Spottswoode

 Our Spottswoode flight consisted of the three wines made at the estate.  We started off with the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (which includes about 1/3 Sauvignon Musque and trace amounts of Semillion).  This was followed by the 2010 Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon, which is the estate’s second label Cabernet.  Finally we had the 2009 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon, which is the flagship wine at this estate.  Both the Cabernets seemed to need more time to develop.  (I opened a 2004 Lyndenhurst in 2011 and was quite impressed.)  My favorite was the Sauvignon Blanc, which magically combines a sense of crispness and weight – likely attributed to its multiple forms of fermenting and aging (barrel, steel, and cement).

Based on this experience, I would rate the winery as a 7 and the wines offered as a 7.

April 24, 2013 – Wine: 2005 Provenance Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon

I have certainly enjoyed watching this wine evolve as I have opened about 15 half-bottles of the 2005 Provenance Cabernet.  When it was young, this wine suggested the promise of its vintage.  But then the fruit shut down for a few years, allowing the vintage’s mineral and coffee notes to dominate the palette.  Finally the fruits have awakened and wow!  (At least for the first 90 minutes … wow!)  This wine needs to breathe about 90 minutes to let the components come into balance, but then enjoy it quickly.  I noted that after a little more than two hours the wow!-factor had diminished as perfect balance ensued.  Until then, the red fruits exhibited by this wine were delightful, featuring cranberry, cherry, red currants, leather, mint, and well-controlled minerals.  I have one full bottle waiting that I will likely open next year.

April 21, 2013 – Wine: 2002 Merryvale Profile

When this wine was younger, I was disappointed because it could not compare to the 2001 vintage of the same wine.  That’s when I learned the lesson about how a vintage can impact a wine’s appeal.  Of course, a couple of years later I learned how a vintage can affect how the wine ages, too.  I found that the 2001 lost its magical appeal by 2010 (it was still nice), but this 2002 Profile has kept improving.  Sadly, this was my last bottle of the 2002 vintage, but I enjoyed it very much.  After three hours breathing, the wine showed good intensity, nice balance, and flavors of leather, dark cherry, minerals, lead, and notes of raspberry on the finish.
 

2002 Merryvale Profile



Larkmead, March 25, 2013

Winery - 8 / Wines - 7
Range:  1 to 9 (9 is best, 5 is average)
Relaxing, elegant tasting room and patio.  Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernets, reservations required.
www.larkmead.com

My friend who runs a wine shop in San Francisco accompanied me on this trip to Napa Valley, so I split the burden of selecting the day’s wineries with him.  I had pick-ups at two wineries, so my friend selected the other two places to visit.  When he mentioned an interest in visiting Larkmead, I was glad because I had wanted to visit there in the past but had never found an opportunity to go.  Larkmead not only bottles their own wine, but they sell some of their grapes to other wineries.  Ramey Wine Cellars (in Healdsburg) produced a Cabernet Sauvignon wine using grapes from the Larkmead estate vineyards through the 2006 vintage.  (I have a bottle of the 2004 vintage in my cellar.)  Needless to say, it will be interesting to compare the winemaking styles of Ramey and Larkmead using grapes from the same vineyards.


The impeccable operations and tasting facilities at Larkmead Vineyards

Right about at the point where the grape vines cross over from St. Helena into Calistoga you’ll find Larkmead Lane, off of which is Larkmead Vineyards.  The winery operations are at the end of a long driveway.  The main winery building features a large wooden door in a natural finish, which stands out against the mostly white winery building.  Off to the left lies the tasting room and offices which resemble a well-made farm house from the past.  Inside, natural light floods the room from large windows along the north-facing wall of the tasting room.  A counter is set up for tasting so that visitors look out this window while they enjoy their flight of wines.  Off to the left is an enclosed patio also set up for wine tasting.  And for warmer weather, I recommend tasting on the covered front patio under the roof that extends out several feet to provide a wonderfully shaded area furnished with a comfortable couch.  They strive for an intimate tasting experience, which explains the numerous tasting configurations.


The tasting bar at Larkmead Vineyards

Because the temperature was hovering around 70F degrees that day, our first pour of the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc was poured on the porch and taken into the vineyards across the street where the grapes for the wine grow.  For the remaining wines in our flight, we returned to the porch setting.  On the porch, we were poured the remaining red wines, including the 2010 Red Blend (featuring a red label), the 2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 2009 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.  My favorite was the 2009 for its depth and fruit development.  The 2009 was sold out, so I opted to bring home the 2010 Cabernet.

Based on this experience, I would rate the winery as a 8 and the wines offered as a 7.

April 20, 2013 – Wine: 2007 Meyer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

I have been Jonesing to try this wine.  Having thoroughly enjoyed every bottle of the 2005 vintage that I have opened (about 2 cases), I was looking forward to tasting the 2007 vintage since the half-bottles arrived 18 months ago.  I could wait no longer, so I opened the first one.  The first thing that you notice is the terrific nose filled with vintage typical fruits.  The palette followed suit with sweet tannins and flavors of blackberry, blueberry, mineral, leather, and lingering black cherry notes.  My only disappointment is that the 2007 lacks the substance and weight of the 2005, but will surely develop into a more elegant wine in a few more years.

April 17, 2013 – Wine: 2001 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon

When I bought this wine, the reviews suggested holding onto this wine until 2011 or so.  After tasting the big 2003 vintage, and a well-preserved 1984 vintage, I decided to follow that advice and add a little more time just for good measure.  I let the wine decant for about 90 minutes.  Like most 2001’s in the half bottle, this wine’s fruit is a little past its peak.  With that said, what remains is still noteworthy and age-worthy.  This still-tannic wine features flavors of plum, leather, cranberry, tea, and strong minerals.  I may hold onto the other bottle until 2016 or so.


2001 Mayacamas Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon



Anomaly Vineyards, March 25, 2013

I returned to Anomaly Vineyards to pick up a few half bottles of their new 2010 release, as well as get a chance to preview the wine.  I brought along my friend who manages a wine shop in San Francisco to share the experience.  He had not been to Anomaly in four years since I picked up my 2006 wines.  We were running a few minutes late and so had to skip the facility tour and go straight to the underground tasting room.  I have always enjoyed the intimacy of this tasting room.  From the working barrels lining each wall, to the practical yet immaculate concrete walls and floors, to the elegant wood table and bench seating and halogen spot lighting, the environment puts the taster directly in the midst of the winemaking experience.
 

Different bottle formats on the tasting table at Anomaly Vineyards.



During this visit I was most interested in tasting the 2010 release of the Anomaly Cabernet Sauvignon.  I had read some interesting reviews of the vintage in general and wanted to get a glimpse at how the 2010 Anomaly wines might develop.  At the same time, they poured three other vintages to learn how the Anomaly wines age and to get a kind of progress report on the bottles slumbering in my cellar.  They poured the 2009, 2008, and 2006 vintages.  Each surprised me by altering my expectations.  The 2006 is developing a richness while blowing off (or covering up) its vintage characteristics.  The 2008 is wonderfully approachable now, but still showing promise of more.  The star is the 2009 and its lushness, which is developing in a very similar manner to the 2005, albeit with darker fruit influences on the palette.

 A full review was written already about Anomaly Vineyards during my visit on April 6^th, 2012.

April 14, 2013 – Wine: 2005 Boa Ventura Maroon Label Cabernet Sauvignon

After a day of uninspiring wine-tasting in Livermore Valley, an insider recommended that I visit Boa Ventura winery to taste their Cabernets.  I was glad that I did.  All of the wines produced at Boa Ventura offer a sense depth and balance that is rare in Livermore.  As they are a tiny operation, it is more economical for them to use wax capsules on their bottles, so they color the wax differently for each wine.  Their top Cabernet uses a maroon colored wax, and is referred to as the Maroon Cabernet Sauvignon.  Not only was I impressed with this wine at the winery, I was elated to find it bottled in half-bottles, so I put together a mixed case.  The wine entered a shut-down state almost immediately, so I let it rest for a couple of years.  Tonight, the wine is showing quite nicely with better fruit development and good balance.  I noticed flavors of tea, cherry, red licorice, mineral, and leather.  I am eager to see how the last bottle of this plays out in a couple more years.

April 13, 2013 – Wine: 2007 Clos du Val Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Wow, what a difference 4 months can make in a wine, though I suspect bottle-variation may also be it play here.  Checking my notes from December 15, the wine was tannic and locked down.  I was a little disappointed then because I recall how I was impressed by this wine when I tasted it at the winery.  Tonight, the wine seems to have awakened.  The pronounced tannins from December have since subsided to the point that this wine is really quite smooth, yet still nearly full-bodied.  The nose retains its classic 2007 attributes (most notably blueberry), while the palette offers up leather, sour cherry, baking spices, slight mineral notes, and a gentle, yet extended finish.

St. Clement Vineyards, March 1, 2013

www.stclement.com

I was already in Napa Valley working my way through my planned four wineries when I received a message from my wine buddy asking me to stop by St. Clement and see if a certain wine was available there.  It wasn’t, but I was not about to waste a visit here.  Having once been a wine club member here, I was quite familiar with their past vintages, but this would be a good opportunity to taste their current vintages.  The staff member had been working at St. Clement for so long that she actually recognized me from when I was a member.  (This, as I recall, was one of the points that made me feel so welcome at St. Clement.)

Saint Clement's old farm house tasting room

I was curious to try the 2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, as I have only tried a couple of 2010 red wines so far.  The wine has a flavor profile that is turning out to be vintage typical, namely dark fruits, smoky minerals, and a subtle tar or tobacco influence.  I was reluctant to try additional wines because I had one more winery to visit, but was convinced to sample the 2009 Star Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, a single-vineyard Cabernet from Rutherford.  This wine is delivering the same consistency that its previous vintages have delivered.  (I have experienced the 2004, 2005, and 2007).  Given a few years in the cellar, this wine will be terrific.

A full review was written already about Saint Clement Vineyards during my visit on May 12^th, 2012.

April 10, 2013 – Wine: 2003 Miner Family The Oracle Red Wine

When I pulled this bottle from the cellar, I thought I had grabbed a half-bottle from the 2005 vintage, of which I had a few remaining.  I was surprised how this one had deviated from the other 2005’s that I had already opened, but it retained the consistency that Miner puts into their Oracle wines.  It wasn’t until a few weeks later when I was looking for the last half-bottle of 2003 Oracle that I realized that this bottle was my last 2003 (and not a 2005 as I had thought – rummaging through the recycling confirmed this).  In my own defense, the year on the bottle is shown in tiny text that is difficult to read without reading glasses and good lighting.  Regardless of what I thought I was drinking, this wine is in a great state right now.  The wine presents nice fruits in terrific balance and smooth texture.  After a 90-minute decant (which this wine desperately needs), I noted flavors of sour cherry, cranberry, sweet black prunes, leather, and well-balanced minerals.  This was the first vintage of Oracle that I experienced (back in 2007) and I have always been impressed by this wine.


2003 Miner Family The Oracle Red Wine