Originally, wine-tasting was a marketing function of wineries. If the wine they made was good enough, it
would sell on its own when presented to the consumer. Then a number of party-happy folks from the
San Francisco Bay Area learned you could visit Napa Valley and get partied up
on wine for next to nothing … and on
quality wine to boot! So, nominal
tasting fees were put in place to curb the party goers and save room at the
tasting counter for actual customers.
Often, these tasting fees were returned to the customer upon purchase of
wine. Lately, it seems that
profit-motivated wineries are now turning to the tasting fees themselves to
make a substantial impact on the bottom line and driving up wine-tasting prices
dramatically over the past decade. Rather
than a cost of marketing, wine-tasting has become a profit-center in the
business of operating a tasting room. Of
course, this leads to more lavish tasting rooms sprouting up around the valley,
but that is a point for another discussion.
Let’s look at the financials. If the
average cost per-bottle of wine on a tasting room’s menu is $50, and each
bottle can pour 16 samples (at 1.5 ounces each pour), and each tasting flight
consists of four wines, then the retail cost to taste those four wines is about
$12.50. Keep in mind that the winery has
already made a substantial mark-up on the retail price of the wine, as
evidenced by the discounts they offer:
20% off to wine-club members, 30% off to wine industry tradesmen, and
50% off to employees. When I started
visiting Napa Valley back in 2005, the tasting fee for this flight was on
average $10 to $15. Today, the tasting
fee at many places for this same flight is about $20 to $25, which represents a
mark-up on top of a mark-up.
At some wineries, this tasting fee is actually used to turn folks away. They only want top-dollar clients coming into
the tasting room and then prey on them with vertical tastings paired with
gourmet hors’ devourers or designer desserts.
A few years back I tried to visit Quintessa Winery (without an
appointment). At the desk I was told
they could accommodate me for a $65 tasting fee, which included a food
pairing. The math suggests that the
retail price of the wine offered was less than $25; and for $60, I could enjoy
an entire half-bottle of their wine without the tasting room’s pretense. So, I passed on the opportunity, but I felt
like they just didn’t want me (or anyone of ordinary financial means) to have
access to tasting their wines. They
wanted to present an air of exclusivity, even though their wines are highly
distributed across the country. To be
fair, the 2003 Quintessa Red Wine was an amazing wine in the half-bottle (not
so much the 2005).
So, if money is something that you have to work for, and you choose to spend
it on quality wines from Napa Valley, it pays to shop around, even for
tasting. Check the tasting fees on
winery web sites before planning a visit, or a simple day trip for you and a good
friend could end up costing more than $500 in tasting fees alone. It is possible to plan a trip for two to four
wineries for less than $50 if you look around.
And ask if the tasting fee is recovered with a purchase, especially if
you find a wine you adore.
No comments:
Post a Comment